Shoya Izakaya, the Art of the Japanese Pub

Izakaya. A word that rolls off the tongue with delightful staccato.

An izakaya, to get all food-snobby on y’all, is a Japanese gastropub. You know, one of those places to sit for hours over drinks with a group of friends, one that also happens to have incredibly good food that’s plated for sharing.

In Japan, almost every little town, even those blips nestled between expanses of bright green rice paddies, has an izakaya. You’ll know it because of the red lantern that hangs out front, inviting visitors. Usually, pitcher upon pitcher of beer (or bottle upon bottle of sake) are drained by a large group of co-workers or friends and small plates of vegetable or tofu salad, grilled fish, tempura and meat-on-a-stick are served. 

A wonderfully authentic, truly delicious izakaya is located just beyond the borders of Gwinnett County and just south of Norcross in the BrandSmart and Super H Mart shopping center near Buford Highway and I-285.

Shoya Izakaya has all the hallmarks of an authentic izakaya: the warm wood, the open kitchen, the smoky aroma of meats on grill, the semi-private tatami rooms for groups.

And it has one hallmark that I find most important of all: everyone who works there is Japanese. And the majority of the clientele are, likewise, Japanese. As a former “Japanaphile,” this makes my heart race with giddiness because I know that impeccably fresh, delicate, authentic flavors will follow. Along with some true Man vs. Food eating challenges for my table (gizzard on a stick, anyone?).  

Before I barrage you with the best of the small plates served at Shoya, you’ll have to make a drink choice. Of the sakes, there are plenty of options, including some fine unfiltered sake, listed on the menu as “country sake.” (The Sansanigori has come recommended.) But you might opt for the Asian liquor less often drank in the U.S., shochu.

The “fresh fruits sour” drink is a delight. My favorite in the winter is the “grapefruits sour”: shochu and soda, served with a half a grapefruit and a tabletop juicer. You put in the elbow work to drain the fruit of the puckery juice, then pour it straight into your glass with the booze. 

Now, on to the many sharable plates.  The menu changes seasonally, so all of these items may not be available when you visit Shoya. And the menu reads like a novel. You’d be well advised to just point and choose at random. Everything is an experience. 

In the starters section, you’ll find some light items to ease the taste buds in. I like the hiyayakko, a block of silky, chilled tofu with lots of scallions and ginger in a simple soy dressing. You absolutely can’t lose with the mixed vegetable tempura. Seasonal vegetables lightly battered and fried, served with the perfect tangy dipping sauce.

You should not leave without ordering at least a few kushiyaki, these are the items stuck on a bamboo skewer and thrown on the open flame. Our groups have always raved about the scallop and bacon skewer and yakitori chicken, though we have yet to find a variety that someone won’t gobble up.

At about round three or four, we usually build up the courage for the wasabi shumai. These dumplings are stuffed with pork, vegetables and a generous amount of wasabi. They will clear the sinuses with huge flavor in all directions.

Two things to note about ordering: In Japan, restaurants work on the "pin-pong" system. On every table, you’ll see a curious little button. Mash it when you’d like the servers to come over to take your order. It’s considered rude for them to interrupt your conversation, so they’ll likely leave you alone until you do so. Also, you can request a sheet of paper and a little golf pen to order items from the sushi menu, which is spectacular. 

Itadakemasu! By that I mean, "Eat up!" 

6035 Peachtree Rd., #A-101
Doraville, GA

770-457-5555

Tues.-Sat. 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.  
Sun. 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Closed Monday