New Mojitos Chef Brings a Creative Touch to Classics

Mojitos Cuban-American Bistro in Historic Norcross has a deserved reputation for presenting the classic Cuban flavors with gusto--and even throwing in some twists: moist, mild empanadas with tangy avocado sauce; a classic “Ropa Vieja” brisket-style steak; the lusted-after ribs with guava BBQ sauce. 

The authentic cuisine comes from owners Luis Fernandez and Yanin Cortez. Cortez’ mother, Elsida Cortez, provided many of the tried recipes and can be found diligently working them to perfection in the narrow kitchen in the mornings.

What was added with the addition of chef Joel Ferrer three months ago is a touch of Neo-Cuban It’s an experimentation, a fusion, a high-end touch that’s been added to the dishes—particularly the specials—thanks to his 22 years in hotels in Cuba. “What he’s doing just compliments everything that we have, naturally,” said Fernandez.

Cuba is not open to American tourism, so Ferrer said his culinary interactions have mostly been with Europeans. You’ll find hints of that in the inventive specials. On the whole red snapper special, you may find an orange sauce. On the delectable mahi-mahi--heavy in the special rotation--you’ll find an unlikely ingredient that binds the dish together: Swiss cheese.

Not that cheese has not made an appearance on Cuban dishes before, but this time is seems profound. The thick cut of mahi is served dramatically on a sizzling hot plate. The bottom layer of the dish is sweet, charred white onions. The fish sits on top of those beauties with a layer of mild, rich Swiss and plump, juicy shrimp perched on top of it all.

You may have your doubts, but believe you me, it works. “Every creation, every food is different,” said Ferrer. “But I do love the Havana fish,"—the name he gives the mahi--when pressed for a favorite.

Fernandez said that when Ferrer has just started, they decided to buy 10 pounds of mahi just to see what would happen. “By 8 p.m., the special had ran out,” he said. “So that special, we’ll revisit.”

Fernandez sais that he gives creative freedoms and likes the results. “He’ll come to me and says we have this and this and this,” he said. “And then it comes together.” Before the shift, the proprietor gathers the servers together to taste and talk—he said he’s noticed that the staff is more excited now about the specials. That also helps them to fly out the door, which they are.

The classic dishes have not been neglected--far from it. In fact, the paella seems more of a standout than ever, incredibly nuanced and rich, stuffed to the brim with goodies.  What comes in the dish just depends on the night you come. On a recent evening, the paella (which, for the record, could serve two hungry people) came with crab legs, octopus, chicken, clams, shrimp and--wait for it--salmon.

Seems overwhelming on one plate, but it still feels light because of the bright, subtle flavors. And there isn’t an overwhelming amount of rice. As Chef Ferrer said, “This paella is Cuban Paella. It is similar but with our Cuban essence.”

What is that essence exactly? Apparently, it isn’t describable but the taste buds, they understand.